Florida Shooters Network

I have three S&W revolvers that need the side covers taken off, and I'm hesitant to do so and bugger the screws with the wrong size screwdriver. Does anyone know the precise screwdriver that will fit perfectly into the screws and not bugger the heads?

I use a hollow ground tip with a 5/32" wide blade for K, L and N frame Smiths. The blade tip should be the thickest one that will fit all the way into the screw slot, so you don't have any rotational play in the slot - that's what boogers the screws and leads to slippage and scratches.

If the sideplate screws have never been removed before, they can be a little stubborn, depending on how much residue and dried solvent has worked into the threads, so don't crank on them too hard. Put a drop of oil or solvent on the perimeter of the screw head and let it soak in. Dab any excess out of the slot with a Q-tip or the corner of a paper towel before inserting your screw driver, to prevent slipping.

Never pry on the sideplate to get it off - always cradle the gun sideplate up in one hand over a towel or soft surface and gently rap on the grip frame with a plastic tipped hammer or a wooden hammer handle with the other. The plate will eventually pop out of the frame. When you replace the sideplate, angle the top corner in place first, then the long end that extends out under the cylinder, and usually evenly applied thumb pressure on the plate just above the grip frame and trigger guard will get it back in place. If it binds or won't go close to flush, don't force it - pop it off and try again. Don't overtighten the screws when replacing them - a little past snug is fine.

Way more info than you asked for, but I cringe at some of the kitchen table gun smiths on Youtube, and maybe this will help someone else too.

Good tips. Two of the guns are J frames, brand new, so I expect the screws will be sticky. I'll put some penetrating oil in there now to give it time to get in there.

J frame sideplates use a slightly smaller screw, so just try a few until you find one that fills the slot length and width best. The main thing is to use a good hollow ground blade so you get maximum depth and contact.

Hey Ian, you can buy a nice wheeler set for less than $30 on Amazon that has a bit to take out the screws. Slow and steady with good downward pressure and a solid hold on the firearm is key with hollow ground bits that fill every bit of the slot of the screw. You can use the screwdriver handle itself to rap loose the side plate exactly like described above. The hammer block will come loose as well so get a good idea where it goes before putting the plate back on. After a few dozen spring kits upgrades at Rich’s over the years, there’s been a couple where I needed a brass punch to massage it off.

Great advice, thanks.

I have that wheeler screwdriver set if you need it.

Thanks, but I ordered the bit set from Brownells.