Florida Shooters Network

If I buy a used car from a dealer in Fla, can I defer paying state sales tax and registration to the dealer, just get a temp plate, and then pay the tax and registration at a local tag shop??

These stealers are trying to tack on some abosolutely ridiculous charges to their already high prices.

Thx

Text I got 5 min ago.
This is for a 10 y/o used Toyota. Car is advertised for $17,540

From the dealer
Market value $21,575
Total savings $4,035
Adjusted price $17,540
Dealer installed accessories $1,999
Total purchase $19,539
Taxable fees $748.55
Doc fee $1,198
Tax $1,364.13
Non Tax fees $502.40

Balance $23,352.08

---------
What the hell is "dealer installed acc" on a USED CAR ?????
What's "taxable fees" $750 ????
$1200 for "Doc fees" ???
Then another $500 for "Non tax fees" ???

WTF ?????

The State Tax at $1364 would be legitament once you subtract their $$$$$ fees and re-calculate.

Tell them to get fvcked...

But yes, you can defer tax. They probably won't let you, though.

They don't call them stealerships for nothing

Back in June, I had to help my dad buy a car. I tried several dealerships, it's just not worth it. We ended up finding a private sale for an older car with horrible paint but really low mileage. We paid cash and then spent about $1.5K in needed repairs and he's now got a reliable functional car without having to pay through the nose with dealer crap. It kind of looks like crap, but everything including the AC works so there's that.

Try finding a private sale, you'll be much happier. If you're careful anyway.

Take the description of any used car say "2018 Toyota Camry LE" and search that year model.

Add KBB (Kelly Blue Book) to the end of the description and you will have options to detail like how the car is equipped, AWD, FWD, RWD, type of engine if it has an upgrade option which you can just click on then adjust mileage to the car you are looking at. You will then have an option for dealer, certified dealer or private seller so click the one that applies and it will give you a ball park price
Most offers range from 10-30% above book value. Some dealers are wanting to finance and are not serious about a cash deal others want a cash deal.
Private sellers are fine if you have a clue but there are skanky private owners as well as slug lot jerks so buyer beware
Certified dealers are safer but still a risk with any used car and they are so far over book you need to want to afford to improve your odds of not getting a repair headache.

If you really want a great deal on a good vehicle be prepared to spend weeks or even months looking

Years ago I was looking for a particular car. Looked on Craigslist, & found a dealer in Miami. The car was nice, but his fees were insane. As I walked out, the owner asked me why I wasn’t taking the car. I told him if he drops all the stupid fee’s, I’d buy the car, but he didn’t. So I walked. Next dealer up here in Palm Beach had a nice car, but when I looked under it, all I saw was rust. Then looked in the glove box, & found paperwork from Ohio, so the winter salt corroded the car. He had no fees, but I wasn’t going to buy a rust bucket. The third dealer, also in Palm Beach had a nice car, but he too had the fees. I told him I was paying cash, & suddenly the fees vanished. So I paid for the car, 6% tax, & true cost for registration. Drove the car for years. My current car I bought from a private seller. 4 years later the seller wants to buy it back from me for $1000 less than I paid, but it’s a great car, & I’m not interested in selling it. I was in the car business for 30 years, so I know what I’m looking at. GARY

Dealers will tell you they have to charge you the fees it is the law and it actually is. If they charge one person they have to charge every customer.

However they can include them in your bottom line price. Let us say you offer $20,000.00 and he accepts
he writes it up and its $2K +$499,99 dealer fee and he says has to charge it.
So you simply say I walk or you make it $19,500.01 + the $499.99 fee AKA $20K bottom line +tax, reg/title

If he says he can not do that he is lying or he was always going to bottom at $20,500.00

The last 2 cars I bought I said build in to my offer or we are done. They wanted my cash sale so they did it

Having the will to walk away is a thing every car salesperson can sense and if you will walk no matter what you (not always) will get your deal

The market is better for buyers now than any time since before the COVID stupid

N4KVE wrote: ↑Tue Jan 23, 2024 2:31 pm Years ago I was looking for a particular car. Looked on Craigslist, & found a dealer in Miami. The car was nice, but his fees were insane. As I walked out, the owner asked me why I wasn’t taking the car. I told him if he drops all the stupid fee’s, I’d buy the car, but he didn’t. So I walked. Next dealer up here in Palm Beach had a nice car, but when I looked under it, all I saw was rust. Then looked in the glove box, & found paperwork from Ohio, so the winter salt corroded the car. He had no fees, but I wasn’t going to buy a rust bucket. The third dealer, also in Palm Beach had a nice car, but he too had the fees. I told him I was paying cash, & suddenly the fees vanished. So I paid for the car, 6% tax, & true cost for registration. Drove the car for years. My current car I bought from a private seller. 4 years later the seller wants to buy it back from me for $1000 less than I paid, but it’s a great car, & I’m not interested in selling it. I was in the car business for 30 years, so I know what I’m looking at. GARY

I've been shopping for a month or so now.
The first thing I do is check the Carfax to see where the car has lived it's life. Preferbly a Florida or southern car, nothing from the rust belt winter states.
Carfax isn't perfect on a vehicles condition, but it's a good starting tool.

Tenzing_Norgay wrote: ↑Mon Jan 22, 2024 7:44 pm Tell them to get fvcked...

This.