Florida Shooters Network

so who has one? any good? any bad?

I don't have a P220 Elite, but I do have an 80's vintage West German made P220 and it is an excellent shooter with a very nice trigger.

gforester wrote: ↑Sat Jan 26, 2019 4:48 pm I don't have a P220 Elite, but I do have an 80's vintage West German made P220 and it is an excellent shooter with a very nice trigger.

Me too. Made in W. Germany, imported by Sig in Herndon Va. Much better than the Sig of today. GARY.

N4KVE wrote: ↑Sun Jan 27, 2019 8:13 am

gforester wrote: ↑Sat Jan 26, 2019 4:48 pm I don't have a P220 Elite, but I do have an 80's vintage West German made P220 and it is an excellent shooter with a very nice trigger.

Me too. Made in W. Germany, imported by Sig in Herndon Va. Much better than the Sig of today. GARY.

Made in W. Germany, imported by Sig226 in Herndon Va...I did put in a quick return trigger for $30...much more betterer.

I have a P220R Carry Elite. It's not stainless but I carried it for 9 years.

I had an early stainless P220 (non elite) one for a while but sold it after just few months as it was too heavy.
I've had a German made P-220 since 1991 and it was my carry pistol for few years. It was easy to carry in a IWB holster but the stainless version was much heavier. I believe regular P220 is about 30 oz where as stainless versions are about 40 oz. One feature of SIG I dislike especially in 45ACP version is the high slide position on the frame and the lack of grip angle both of which contributes to excessive muzzle rise. It's very noticeable when firing rapid double or triple taps on target.

rug357 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 19, 2019 3:33 pm I had an early stainless P220 (non elite) one for a while but sold it after just few months as it was too heavy.
I've had a German made P-220 since 1991 and it was my carry pistol for few years. It was easy to carry in a IWB holster but the stainless version was much heavier. I believe regular P220 is about 30 oz where as stainless versions are about 40 oz. One feature of SIG I dislike especially in 45ACP version is the high slide position on the frame and the lack of grip angle both of which contributes to excessive muzzle rise. It's very noticeable when firing rapid double or triple taps on target.

Have you tried the E2 grips? Seem to be a bit more of an angle, and the grip is softer. I have a P227 which has those. I have a hard time deciding between keeping that or my 1911, waffling back and forth trying to stick with one "system".

CaptBarty wrote: ↑Fri Apr 26, 2019 1:01 pm

rug357 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 19, 2019 3:33 pm I had an early stainless P220 (non elite) one for a while but sold it after just few months as it was too heavy.
I've had a German made P-220 since 1991 and it was my carry pistol for few years. It was easy to carry in a IWB holster but the stainless version was much heavier. I believe regular P220 is about 30 oz where as stainless versions are about 40 oz. One feature of SIG I dislike especially in 45ACP version is the high slide position on the frame and the lack of grip angle both of which contributes to excessive muzzle rise. It's very noticeable when firing rapid double or triple taps on target.

Have you tried the E2 grips? Seem to be a bit more of an angle, and the grip is softer. I have a P227 which has those. I have a hard time deciding between keeping that or my 1911, waffling back and forth trying to stick with one "system".

No, I have not shot any of my Sigs for several years now except the P-225 which I still carry on occasion. All my other Sigs are safe queens now waiting for my son to develop interest in them in couple years.

Rug357 hit it on the head. I don't agree with the older ones being better than the newer ones, per se, but sometimes the oldies have smoother triggers. I know that my 230 has a smoother DA pull than my 232. My primary bedside pistol is a newer railed and tailed 220, and I like to swap the slide and the magazine and plink .22 with it. One of my favorite pistols.

Would having the standard reset trigger be a deal breaker, meaning you wouldn't travel to see it? If not, and you are familiar with the feel of the standard reset, you could do a quick functional check to verify which trigger it has.

Clear the gun and make it safe. Pull the trigger and hold it back. Rack the slide then release the trigger, making note of how quickly the trigger resets.

If the seller doesn't object, you could also remove the right grip panel and look to see if it has the thin tab of the standard safety lever or the thick tab of the SRT sear over the trigger bar.

Or, it might even say on the model designation sticker on the box.