Florida Shooters Network

I'm not getting enough hot water. 6 year old AC Smith tank. Did a check today for the two elements, and two thermostats, all good. I tried to drain the tank six months ago, and have two much crystals to drain it, even using a coat hanger. I saw one video of a guy who used a wetvac with extra tubing attached, fish it through the element hole, once it was unscrewed.

Is this my problem? Do I need to check anything else? I don't have hard water or any build up in sinks or showers. I'm on county water in Vero Beach area, Sebastian.
Thanks.

A O. Smith?

How do you know elements are good? Need to check with ohmmeter.

If there is too much build-up/sediment, it acts as a heat-sink and "steals" your hot water

Need to pull the tank, disassemble all fittings, drag it outside and try to blast out the sediment.

Barring that, buy a new one. They're not that expensive if you DIY.


...and be sure to flush annually. I installed a new WH (city water) during construction, and had to remove/install a few times for drywall, tile, etc. You'd be surprised at what came out each time. It builds up quick.

Also need to check that WH is getting 220v...could be missing a leg.

I am not a plumber, but I once stayed at a Holiday Inn...

I ditched my water heater tank and went with an electric tankless system this year and saved like $70 a month in electric bill. Turns out the hot water heater was the highest user of electricity in the house. Surprising considering how much the AC runs in the Inferno. But I had to have an electrician run a few circuits to juice it so it is not cheap to convert to these tankless systems.

But to try to get back on track and help you out, perhaps you can hook a garden hose to the bottom spigot and use the water pressure to back flush it and loosen the sediment so it will drain?

What do I know. I'm on City water too but there is a lot of sediment that come through and it was wrecking my plumbing values on the sinks and toilets. So I installed a whole house sentiment filter that I change once a year. When I clean it, it almost makes me puck how much crap is in there. I also installed a water softner to help prevent these scaling problems.

Flame Red wrote: ↑Tue Sep 29, 2020 1:11 pm I am not a plumber, but I once stayed at a Holiday Inn...

I ditched my water heater tank and went with an electric tankless system this year and saved like $70 a month in electric bill. Turns out the hot water heater was the highest user of electricity in the house. Surprising considering how much the AC runs in the Inferno. But I had to have an electrician run a few circuits to juice it so it is not cheap to convert to these tankless systems.

You still have to de-scale tankless water heaters regularly. I found out the hard way when a small unit I had zapped me. Water corroded element, causing it to short. Thank God I wasn't in the shower.

You have to open the water pressure release valve AND a at least one hot water fixture in order to drain the tank, otherwise you create a vacuum and it won't.

Once you unscrew the elements on an old cheap thin steel water heater tank that's been in use for years, you immediately compromise the integrity of the enamel coated interior...if it's not already. That means it's likely going to rust in the area immediately around those threads and leak within a year with our horrible Florida water from you messing with it, from experience.

You WILL need an impact wrench and a special socket to get those damn elements out too.

Instead of a coat hanger, you can turn the water feed into the tank off and hook up a garden hose to the drain port with your normal house water to back flush it. Then open the hot water faucet on a bathtub and let it back flush flush for a while, then try and drain it again.

Thanks all. Yes I disconnected everything (after turning the breakers off) I have continuity on the elements...and watched a video on checking the thermostat.

So if I do get to drain, the inside will now be compromised? This unit is a AO Smith top of the line, not a cheap-o...and is only six years old.

I'm having second thought about doing it myself...I recall changing the elements on a unit years ago and it was not problem, but if this one gets stubborn and I can't get them off...I've drained the unit for nothing & still have my problem...less several hours of work.

New, same model will run me $800.50 and work is slow. IF it blew up tomorrow, I'd get the money though.

Once you get it cleaned you should be fine unless tank was ready to go anyway.

On the boats I run I change the elements regularly as part of preventive maintenance.

Run to home depot and various kits are cheap insurance.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Electric-Wa ... /204834414

photohause wrote: ↑Tue Sep 29, 2020 6:03 pm Thanks all. Yes I disconnected everything (after turning the breakers off) I have continuity on the elements...and watched a video on checking the thermostat.

So if I do get to drain, the inside will now be compromised? This unit is a AO Smith top of the line, not a cheap-o...and is only six years old.

I'm having second thought about doing it myself...I recall changing the elements on a unit years ago and it was not problem, but if this one gets stubborn and I can't get them off...I've drained the unit for nothing & still have my problem...less several hours of work.

New, same model will run me $800.50 and work is slow. IF it blew up tomorrow, I'd get the money though.

The inside will not be compromised. If it is, somehow, then so be it.

How big of a home/how many people?

I have a 2/2, just wifey and me. We've never run out of water with a 40gal. tank.

This is the unit I purchased. Military discount = 10% off, so $325: https://www.lowes.com/pd/A-O-Smith-Sign ... 1000213649

just teh two of us, plus our dependent - the washing machine.